A sheen that has enchanted women for centuries- a weave that spells opulence- silk is considered one of the finest fabrics in the world. Available in umpteen variants, the fabric can range from being utterly crisp to extremely flattering, from being smooth and dazzling to uneven and iridescent, and is highly patronized by women. Woven from the yarns obtained from silk moths, the fabric is also a favorite of designers and is extensively used in apparels as well as add-ons like scarves.
The land of skilled artisans, handlooms and aesthetic inclination- India is home to a number of silk variants. Silk is the fabric that is most commonly used in making heavy festive-wear sarees. It accentuates the beauty of the Indian saree which is by itself a highly appealing garment. Banarasi, Bhagalpuri, dupion, tussar, taffeta, Kachipuram- silk sarees in India are a vast assortment and if you are a saree connoisseur, you will probably never get over the charm of these drapes!
Heavy silk sarees- a grand wardrobe for festivities
In India, for a lot of women wedding and festive wear is synonymous with silk sarees. The connection here is absolutely justified- silk sarees detailed with metallic zari weaves truly reflect the ambience of Indian festivities. These days art silk saris have also flooded the market as economical replacements of pure silk sarees and closely resemble the surface texture and fall of the latter. When accessorized with traditional golden/ silver ornaments or temple jewellery, these garments make a perfect festive-ready ensemble- scaling up the beauty of Indian women beyond expectation!
Popular Indian silk sarees
There are plenty of varieties in silk saris- some are apt for regular wear while some make a priceless heirloom, symbolizing the highest degree of luxury. There is a huge variety in silks too - ranging from pure mulberry soft silks - that spell elegant, classy luxury to more rustic tussars and ghicha - which continue to be working women’s favorite - to bridal special weaves.
Out of all the variants, Banarasi silk sarees and Kanjivaram silk sarees tend to be the ones that have widely pervaded among masses as well as classes - including the closet of tinsel town beauties as well as globally dispersed Indians. Woven with high level of precision and finest silk yarns, these traditional saris have an unmatched charm which has kept them trending till date.
Arts, Weaves and Embellishments
From Bihar’s Bhagalpuris silks to precious Muga sarees from Assam - to exquisite Uppadas and Gadwals to softest Mysore silk sarees, gossamer Chanderis and finest Kashmiri silks - made blended with wool - there is a wealth of silks sarees created all over India. In fact, almost every single region in India has its own weave - and thus a saree art or weave specific to that area. Many of these arts & weaves thrive on the usage of silk yarns - which again range from mulberry silks to wild silk varieties and even blended ones where cotton and silk are combined.
Not just the weaves - but also the embellishments and embroideries have been mastered over silk sarees. A good example is the Kantha work - an embroidery type doen over flesh hued, undyed tussars. Zardoshi, Abla, Aari are other popular Indian embroideries that are practised on silk sarees. Then, there are dyeing skills like Bandhani and Ikat - that are done on silk fabric and silk yarn respectively - and their respective sarees Bandhani silks, Pochampally Ikats, Patan Patolas (Ikats) and many more.
While most sarees woven in India have a special status, two noteworthy weaves Benarasi from the Northern India and Kanchipuram from the Southern states have won the news headlines as well as hearts, since years. Let’s talk about them in detail -
As per Geographical Indication regulations of IPR, a Banarasi silk saree is typically woven in the pious city of Varanasi which is located on the banks of river Ganga in North India. Made with mulberry silk yarns, these sarees are an epitome of fine-weaving. Golden brocade details forming buttis and flower vine borders are distinguishing characteristics of these drapes. Banarasi sarees are usually made in vibrant colours like rani pink, red, magenta, green and orange and have a highly ostentatious appeal. These saris were patronized by the Mughals and therefore buttis and other woven details reflect a deep connection with Mughal architecture.
A red Banarasi brocade saree is the traditional wedding outfit of North Indian brides. Actress Anushka Sharma walked in as the perfect Indian bride for her wedding reception- clad in an ornate red Banarasi silk saree. Other celebrities like Shilpa Shetty and Aishwarya Rai Bachchan too have been often spotted gracing red carpet events in these shimmery drapes.
A popular traditional garment in South India, Kanchipuram or Kanjivaram silk saris are, woven in the Kanchipuram town of Tamil Nadu. Like Banarasi saris, these luxurious saris too are made with fine mulberry silk. The distinguishing factor here is the bold temple designs and mythology scenery woven over the garment- which beautifully reflects the culture and architectural intricacies of southern India. Separate body, pallu and border colours are another peculiar characteristic of Kanjeevaram silk saris.
Deepika Padukone’s bridal look was purely Indian- with a maroon and golden Kanchipuram handloom sari. Veteran Actress Rekha is one of the biggest Bollywood patrons of these majestic drapes. Tamanaah Bhatia, Kangana Ranaut, Kajal Aggarwal, Vidya Balan- the list of glitterati flaunting Kanjeevaram silk saris is equally impressive!
These days when western-wear and contemporary silhouettes have hit the market- much to the glee of innovative fashion enthusiasts, Indian silk sarees have managed to not just hold their position, they have grown to becoming a glamorous style statement- a rich blend of ethnicity, modesty and classic style!